Buddha's Birthday at Bangkok Hanmaum
The altar looked gorgeous. There were so many offerings arranged before the Buddha image that you'd never have believed this was just a tiny temple of a handful of ex-pats. Fruit and flowers were piled high, there were stacks of colourful rice cakes, boxes of incense, candles, and rows of lilies either side of the Buddha.
A central part of the morning ceremony was an offering of more lilies by each person there. We lined up, gently chanting the Buddha's name, and placed our long-stemmed buds at the front of the altar. A whole forest of pink lilies sprang up and people settled back down for more chanting and to listen to some teachings.
Earlier, before we went into the hall, I met four or five Littlebang regulars who had come along for the first time, and a Thai couple who regularly attend the seon centre's main events. Kun Young, in a beautiful hanbok her aunt had made for her, came in with us and provided a great explanation of the ceremony and teachings.
There was a greeting from Kun Daehaeng Sunim, and then the head monk spoke about how when we think of something, our mother's love when we were small for example, our minds take us directly there. In this way, she said, time is meaningless and Buddha is born today as much as thousands of years ago.
After the ceremony everyone was given some lovely gifts, including a small yum-joo (mala), and it was time for lunch. We had vegetarian bibimbab and rice cakes and fruit, and then met with other English-speakers, including two Bhikkhunis from the International Women's Meditation Center in Rayong.
We talked about the possibility of an English-language Seon group meeting once a month for practice and teachings, and both the resident sunims who run the centre, and the visiting Bhikkhunis, who also indicated a willingness to be involved, were supportive of the idea. I have no solid news yet - but watch this space.
The Buddha Birthday celebrations started again at six with a short ceremony of chants familiar to me from the evening services I used to attend in Korea, and I joined in as best I could. There was a circumambulation in the grounds of the temple as the sun went down, and then everyone took their positions for the festival.
It started with a choir, a good thirty voices, all the women in gorgeous hanboks, all the men in white shirts, with English translations on a screen to one side. I felt it a real shame that no one had come along from the Littlebang Sangha for this, the translations were wonderful and the singing deeply moving.
Next on stage was a paper lily about waist height. Everything was still and people wondered what was about to happen. Suddenly it sprang open and two small children, amazingly cute in traditional costume, came out with brightly-lit lanterns which they carried to the shrine, accompanied by delighted gasps and much applause.
Then came a drumming performance of huge energy and skill. Each drummer had three drums and span around with perfect synchronicity, at one stage all were simultaneously leaning over backwards as part of their intense routine. Next was the turn of some children, and then one woman's traditional solo silent dance.
In the past, the girl sitting next to me explained, Korean women spent their marriages completely unable to express themselves, which gave birth to this art form. I was spellbound. More performances followed, and I was left wondering how such a small community manages to find such time and such talent.
Next, a huge surprise, six Thai girls, in traditional Thai costume, were interviewed, and sang together, in Korean. I asked who they were and learnt that they study Korean at university with scholarships provided by the temple. Later on I met their teacher and congratulated her on their truly amazing achievements.
There was a martial arts display, a kayagum performance, more dancing, and finally the choir sang the four Bodhisattva vows and we all made a final three prostrations. It felt, as a French friend of Kun Young's said, like one big family, and I'm so grateful to have celebrated the day with such wonderful people. Thank you.
