Wat Prathum

Wat Prathum

Wat Prathum is the temple squeezed between the huge new Siam Paragon and the recently developed Central World. In fact, going into either of these shopping complexes and marvelling at the roofs and trees dizzyingly far below makes a wonderful prelude to a visit, and gives a good first idea of just how beautiful the place is.

The first section of Wat Prathum is very much like any other Thai temple with its red tiles, stupas, stray dogs and washing lines of orange robes drying in the glare. Everything's being renovated at the moment, there's bare concrete and unpainted plaster and very little access, but what progress you can see looks stunning.But behind this section, set further back from Phloenchit Road, the spacious hall area usually set aside for meditation is still open.

Today a popular monk was preaching, the place was full of people, and the TV screens and loud-speakers were turned to maximum, but at other times this is a deeply quiet and lovely place to sit.There are mats on the floor marking out meditation areas, chairs for those who prefer them around the edges of the hall, and quiet ceiling fans above.

I've sat there a few times over the years and have never felt uncomfortable doing so. There's always someone there with a smile, with kind unspoken encouragement to practice.